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Delegation 2004 to Colombia - First-Hand Reports

Cacarica: July 18-August 7, 2004

San José de Apartadó: July 18-31, 2004

Organized by
Chicagoans for a Peaceful Colombia
and Fellowship of Reconciliation (FOR)

Fourth Report:

July 24 & 25, 2004

There was a power outage in La Union, so we could send nothing from there, so this report on Saturday and Sunday 7/24 & 25 is coming to you from Bogotá where we returned last night (Wednesday 7/28). The group's experience in La Union will be covered in a report or reports coming soon.

We were going to begin this report by saying that it might be quite brief, as some of us, including the writers, went out dancing our last night in Medellin with some members of the youth group we met with on Saturday afternoon, Red Juvenil (Youth Network) (more on them below), and we didn't get back to the hotel until after three in the morning. In this way, we honored our last night together as a group before separating for our distinct destinations, by participating in the work-hard-play-hard philosophy of serious Colombian peace activists. And had a great time!

But backing up, Saturday morning we visited first with members of the Corporacion Juridica Libertad (Liberty Law Corp. or CJL), an 11-year-old group of lawyers who provide training, accompaniment and advocacy to people in the organized movements of resistance to government, paramilitary and rebel violence. They work in the barrios of Medellin, other parts of the Antioquia province, including San Jose de Apartado, and also in the department of Choco, to the west. They gave us an overview of the security situation in the places we were headed, and the history and organization of the communities and the struggle to resist displacement from their lands. Colombia has many good laws with respect to some of the issues these communities face that are not enforced, and the CJL provides a crucial avenue for seeking vindication of these rights, and to open a space for further self-determination by people the state generally seeks to shunt aside. When they cannot get relief in national courts, the CJL has also taken petitions to international bodies. An example of the potential success of such strategies (though not itself a CJL case) is last week's historic decision of the Interamerican Human Rights Court of the Organization of American States, ordering the Colombian government to pay 6.5 million U.S dollars in damages to the family members of 19 people killed in a massacre by paramilitaries over 10 years ago. It is the first time a court has officially recognized the organizational and causal link that exists between the official government forces and these supposed private armies. Like other groups we heard from, CJL supports a negotiated end to the armed conflict and an end to human rights violations by all sides.

Later that morning, members of CJL led us up to a settlement perched high on one of the mountains surrounding the city (with an indescribable view), where we met with representatives of a community of displaced campesinos from different rural areas, including San Jose de Apartado. They spoke movingly of the lives they had left, and long to return to. In the countryside, one of them said, "we were poor, but we had our land and we lacked for nothing." Fleeing to the city, they have left everything behind, and have had to construct makeshift dwellings on the steep hillside and attempt to make a neighborhood and a life, often subsisting by begging or selling things in the streets of the city far below.

We were told no details of the displacements themselves that caused them to relocate, or which armed actors were responsible, and this in itself was telling. For as recently as November another delegation received detailed testimonies on those subjects from various community leaders and others. The change since last fall is that the leaders have all been detained on various pretexts, and there is an increased presence in the community of individuals associated with the paramilitaries, which has caused people to be fearful of speaking their minds as before. This is a process that has been repeated in neighborhood after neighborhood in Medellin, where, as we learned from others, the paramilitary organizations have achieved substantial dominance in many areas of pubic life. They operate pretty much as a crime syndicate, run from one of the city jails, demanding and collecting protection payments from merchants and businesses, and, through their domination of the local councils in the communities where they increasingly hold sway, even getting access to city funds meant for various improvement projects, which they then spend for their own purposes. When it was rumored that the leaders of this syndicate were to be moved from their established place in the central jail to another facility, the paramilitaries paralyzed the city through a mass stoppage of public transportation, and the move was abandoned. All these activities of intimidation, repression and graft take place with the effective cooperation of the established government forces, and, as everyone has told us, the ranks of the paramilitary groups include many people employed by the police and army who simply turn their badge around after work.

We left the settlement with some hope for their organizing process, but mostly with a sad and sharp understanding of the costs of the massive internal displacements in the country, and of the crucial importance of assisting campesinos to stay on their land.

As we pulled up to Red Juvenil's offices we got a taste of their brand of pacifism, and it was loud and jubilant. Led by drummers, marchers assembled in the streets outside Red Juvenil's offices. As soon as we sat down to talk to them we found out that Red Juvenil was participating in a festival-parade to demand the release of the members of the rock band Pasajeros (Passengers) who had been detained six weeks ago while performing at a public protest.

Red Juvenil is a network that started 13 years ago by youth in Medellin who lost loved ones to the armed conflict or who conscientiously object to the military/police draft. 150 people make up the whole organization with 30 youth working from the office as a core. The youth network has members in the northeast, northwest, and the center of Medellin. In Red Juvenil members' words, "The Red is the only organization that is having an impact on the whole city because we are working from our base. In 1997, we decided we wanted to show how we wanted to remake Medellin. We took the cooperative games we did amongst ourselves and taught them in the schools and neighborhoods suffering a great deal of conflict. We started practicing nonviolent direct action."

The Red focuses on three areas. One group focuses on the practice and promotion of nonviolence, forming study groups, performing street theater and direct action. This group also teaches games to other youth that activate values, such as a soccer game where no one loses. A conscientious objector (CO) group helps youth find alternatives to a mandatory draft that leaves CO's unable to get a college degree or secure a job without proof of having served in the military. This group also works with rock bands like the Pasajeros to spread an anti-militarist message through music. Yet another group works to educate youth about their human rights and how the law works in Colombia.

Wearing her "We Are All Passengers, Arrest Us!" t-shirt made by the Red the Red Juvenil member described their new project, "We decided to set out for the south of the city. Now we are bringing home what we learned in our neighborhoods to the south." In fact like many of the groups we met with, the members of Red Juvenil are networking with other human rights groups around Columbia and the world, in their case including the youth of the Peace Community of San Jose de Apartado.

Sunday morning we rose early for a final check-in as our combined San Jose and Cacarica group, before heading to the airport for our short flight to Apartado. (Apartado is a town and a municipality, like a county. San Jose de Apartado, where the peace community is located, is one district of the municipality, and includes the (much smaller) village of San Jose de Apartado and a number of veredas or hamlets, including La Union, the ultimate destination of the San Jose group.) Having taken off from a bowl high in the Andes (though not as high as Bogota), we landed at practically sea level, amid endless banana plantations and stifling tropical heat. This is a conflict zone, and the small, otherwise sleepy airport is highly militarized. We'd been led to expect one-on-one interviews with a combined security agency representative upon arrival. Thankfully, this was apparently not part of the drill that day, and we exited to the curb with minimal hassle. There, we said our goodbyes, and the Cacarica group went off in taxis for their drive to Turbo, the port city where they'd be getting the boat across the Gulf of Uraba, and thence upriver to Cacarica that night. We trust they arrived safely! Don't expect to hear from them until they return to Bogota next week, as there is no internet connection where they are. (Which of course turned out to be the case for our San Jose group as well, but our stay in the country was shorter....)

Now eleven, we boarded a minibus into the town of Apartado, where we laid in groceries and other supplies for our stay in the peace community, hired our transport for the drive to the town of San Jose Apartado, and relaxed and lunched at a small cafe with our bags spilling out onto the sidewalk. The carreterra ("highway") between the towns of Apartado and San Jose is a six-mile, pitted, winding road of dirt and rocks, that takes an hour to drive and is considered the most dangerous stretch of highway in the area with respect to abductions, detentions and disappearances by the military and paramilitary forces. We rode in two "chiveros," or covered jeeps, open in back, with benches along the side facing inward, so you bumped knees with the person across from you. All our bags went on top. We drove in caravan, each driver always keeping the other vehicle in sight--a wise precaution as one of the jeeps, which take a beating on this route, broke down twice. Shortly after one of the chiveros was resurrected we came upon a military checkpoint and were asked to take down our luggage for the soldiers to look through. After apologizing for the intrusion the soldiers let us continue on.

Half an hour later, we arrived in the center of San Jose de Apartado, to be greeted by a passel of children. The center of town is a square book-ended by the two largest buildings in San Jose, a combination town/hall, school house, and dormitory for visitors, and the town warehouse that housed the community's cacao and marmalade processors, as well as a meeting space for the community council. While unpacking several farmers came up to us to thank us for our presence in the community, telling us how much it meant to the security of the community that we were present. We were sore from the ride in the chiveras but we hardly noticed amidst the multiple welcomes we received from young and old. More soon on our first day in the Peace Community

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Fellowship of Reconciliation
Task Force on Latin America and the Caribbean
2017 Mission St. #305
San Francisco, CA 94110
phone: (415) 495-6334, fax: (415) 495-5628
www.forusa.org

©2004 Fellowship of Reconciliation